Written by Brittany Kleinman: Fresh, frozen and living, Tsukiji fish market pushes around 4,500 lbs of seafood a day. At 3:00am while you’re out clubbing, 400 different types of seafood from tiny sardines to 600 lb tuna arrive by ship, truck and plane from all over the world. Once unloaded, most seafood strains through the “inner market” (jonai shijo) stopping among the 900 wholesale stalls but the prized tuna are sent to auction.

Blanketed in thick layers of white ice, human-sized tunas are inspected, valued and prepared for auction. Hordes of buyers and auctioneers gather around 5:30am to begin the bidding. At the auction houses there are usually designated spots for ‘non-fisherman’ to grab a glimpse, so make sure to get there before 6:30am when activity declines. Click Read More for additional information and photos of Tsukiji fish market.

Tsukiji is not for the faint of heart, you have to appreciate seeing (and smelling) all the guts and glory of a fishermen’s life. Throughout the main market stalls, you must find a balance of observing and staying out of the way. Motorized carts wiz by like a video game and slimy breathing fish can dance into the isles as you make your way through. Watch as large fish are cut to pieces with band saws while smaller ones are prepared with extremely long knives called Oroshi hocho. To inexperienced eyes this market can be overwhelming big and redundant, but I assure you that every buyer knows exactly what they want.

When 7:00am rolls around and you don’t know what hit you, find your way to the “outer market” (jogai shijo) for a mixture of Japanese tools, supply shops and restaurants serving up the freshest breakfast sushi of your life. You have seen the fish’s entire journey from boat to plate; at this point the only step left is to enjoy it! Careful as you sink your teeth into the tender fish, as your taste buds might disintegrate from sheer enjoyment.

Market Details

Tsukiji fish market is located near the Tsukijishijō Station on the Toei Ōedo Line and Tsukiji Station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line and most busy from 5:30-8:00am.

Writer/Photographer, Brittany Kleinman writes our weekly column on market culture. Read more about Brittany and her work at Avo: Market.

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